In this Vogue article, the author celebrates crab as a quintessential winter delicacy, especially in Japanese cuisine where seasonal eating is prized; cold water makes crab meat firmer, sweeter, and more desirable, and tight fishing seasons enhance its scarcity and status as a luxury item. The piece highlights New York restaurants (including Michelin-starred counters) featuring premium crabs flown in from Japan, showcasing elaborate preparations—from charcoal-grilled legs and crab-infused chawanmushi to tempura and rich soba courses—and notes the cultural excitement around winter crab both in Japan and in global culinary scenes.