Jan 13, 2026

Town & Country

Move over, omakase. How kaiseki became the status Japanese dining experience of the moment.

Jan 13, 2026

Town & Country

Move over, omakase. How kaiseki became the status Japanese dining experience of the moment.

Leave the $500 nigiri to the amateurs. In-the-know diners have a new culinary obsession.

Kaiseki—Japan’s refined, seasonal, multi‑course cuisine—is eclipsing “bromakase” omakase as New York’s status dining experience, emphasizing restraint, philosophy, and cooked techniques across courses from sakizuke to donabe rice. It spotlights new and notable kaiseki destinations, including Michelin‑starred Muku, Chinatown’s Yamada, and Waldorf Astoria’s Yoshoku, alongside intimate counters like Jō and Ikigai, with chefs highlighting meticulous seasonality, artisanal vessels, and omotenashi. While acknowledging the ubiquity of $500 nigiri at places like Sushi Noz, the piece contends kaiseki offers deeper cultural and culinary storytelling—balancing tradition with New York influences—and is the reservation discerning diners truly want.

Article author:

William Li

Photo credit:

Joe Thomas