Lungi, a New York Times Critic’s Pick located on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, brings the vibrant and unapologetically fiery flavors of southern India and Sri Lanka to a neighborhood traditionally known for more subdued dining options. Co-owned by Mervyn Winston and chef Albin Vincent—who drew inspiration from his childhood memories and recruited a specialized kitchen staff—the restaurant meticulously crafts a menu where heat acts as a complex flavor rather than overwhelming the palate. Standout offerings include crisp, lamb-filled mutton rolls, fermented-rice hoppers, and a Sunday banana-leaf feast, alongside expertly balanced curries and chutneys. While the service can occasionally be inconsistent and the narrow storefront lacks the high-end polish of some recent competitors, the exceptional culinary execution makes it a compelling destination for authentic regional cuisine.