In this Eater article, the spotlight is on the traditional Japanese method of ike jime, which is gaining popularity in New York's culinary scene. A notable example is JaBä, a modern Taiwanese restaurant in Midtown East, where chef-owner Tony Inn applies ike jime to enhance the texture and flavor of dishes like steamed goby with fermented black beans, ginger, and scallions. Inn, who trained under sushi master Toshio Suzuki, initially included ike jime-prepared goby on the menu but had to pause due to kitchen constraints. He plans to reintroduce it, emphasizing the technique's role in preserving fish quality and extending shelf life. JaBä's menu also features refined Taiwanese dishes such as aged sacha beef ribs with lotus buns and crab roe and clam egg tofu custard, reflecting Inn's fusion of traditional practices with modern culinary innovation.