JaBä, a 55-seat Taiwanese restaurant that opened at 230 E 58th Street in Midtown East, is chef Tony Inn’s bid to elevate the homestyle flavors he grew up with through the refined techniques he honed at Japanese fine-dining spots like Morimoto and Masa. The menu’s 21 shareable dishes showcase both polish and nostalgia: must-orders include the collagen-rich beef noodle soup brimming with tender tendon, the lo ba beng (braised pork over rice) paired with garlicky cucumbers, ultra-crispy pig-ear “chips,” and a sweet-savory tomato granita dessert. Larger groups can explore house-made Taiwanese sausage, translucent bawan “crystal meatballs,” miso-laced cured mackerel, and basil-scented razor clams, all served in a leather-and-linen dining room Inn says cost “half a mil” to outfit. While JaBä waits on its liquor license, drinks like herbal sarsaparilla soda and wintermelon spritz complement the meal, underscoring Inn’s mission to bring Taiwanese cuisine to a “higher standard” without losing its soul.