Dec 7, 2023

Condé Nast Traveler

In Mumbai and Delhi, finding inspiration in the unapologetic flavors of India’s street food

When the acclaimed team behind New York's most popular Indian restaurants headed home—intent on eating their way through roadside fried-chicken stalls and no-frills omelet houses—writer Alex Bhattacharji followed.

Featured client

Dec 7, 2023

Condé Nast Traveler

In Mumbai and Delhi, finding inspiration in the unapologetic flavors of India’s street food

When the acclaimed team behind New York's most popular Indian restaurants headed home—intent on eating their way through roadside fried-chicken stalls and no-frills omelet houses—writer Alex Bhattacharji followed.

Featured client

Condé Nast Traveler follows chef Chintan Pandya and restaurateur Roni Mazumdar — the Unapologetic Foods duo behind New York hits Adda, Dhamaka, Semma and more — on a frenetic two‑week road trip through Delhi, Jaipur, Mumbai and Surat, where they skipped white‑tablecloth rooms for roadside stalls selling saffron‑tinted makhan, wood‑grilled seekh kebabs, masala‑crusted fried chicken, seafood curries and ingenious egg omelets. Between cameo dinners at JW Marriotts and pilgrimages to icons like Indian Accent, the pair prowled lanes and markets, licking butter off banyan leaves, eating off car hoods and codifying a few house rules (“you can eat anything with your hands; moderation will fail”). Each discovery — from buffalo kebabs at Delhi’s Qureshi Kabab Corner to the explosive spice of Konkan Swad’s Bombay duck — fed ideas for forthcoming New York menus such as Dhamaka’s brunch, an Adda reboot and the fast‑casual Kebabwala. Their mission, the story argues, is to rescue vanishing regional recipes and prove there is no need to “apologize” for India’s gutsiest flavors — a lesson the author finds as stirring as the food itself.

Title author:

Alex Bhattacharji

Photo credit:

Pankaj Anand