Manhattan’s sushi counters are hotter than ever. We go in search of the greatest.
Manhattan’s omakase scene is booming and diversifying, from food-court counters to members‑only clubs, with veterans of Japan’s top sushi temples elevating New York’s offerings. The piece spotlights Eugeniu Zubco, a Masa alumnus, whose 12‑seat Yūgin at Coco’s delivers 20 courses of tuna, truffles, and caviar flown in daily from Tokyo, starting at $475—positioned as a relative bargain beside Masa’s $950 experience. It charts the competitive high end with Tadashi Yoshida’s Yoshino ($500, perpetually booked) and Keiji Nakazawa’s Sushi Sho ($450 “half omakase” plus extensive add‑ons), while noting Nakazawa’s pushback against the city’s omakase fixation. It also highlights Mekumi, an eight‑seat west Soho counter keeping early prices to $300 for 20 courses, with an $800 snow crab menu planned for winter, and previews Simon Kim’s Madison Avenue omakase “speakeasy” with three‑Michelin‑star chef Masahiro Yoshitake.
Article author:
Jay Cheshes
Photo credit:
Blaine Pennington

