Jan 5, 2026

Financial Times

The NYC chefs putting the amaze in omakase

Jan 5, 2026

Financial Times

The NYC chefs putting the amaze in omakase

Manhattan’s sushi counters are hotter than ever. We go in search of the greatest.

Manhattan’s omakase scene is booming and diversifying, from food-court counters to members‑only clubs, with veterans of Japan’s top sushi temples elevating New York’s offerings. The piece spotlights Eugeniu Zubco, a Masa alumnus, whose 12‑seat Yūgin at Coco’s delivers 20 courses of tuna, truffles, and caviar flown in daily from Tokyo, starting at $475—positioned as a relative bargain beside Masa’s $950 experience. It charts the competitive high end with Tadashi Yoshida’s Yoshino ($500, perpetually booked) and Keiji Nakazawa’s Sushi Sho ($450 “half omakase” plus extensive add‑ons), while noting Nakazawa’s pushback against the city’s omakase fixation. It also highlights Mekumi, an eight‑seat west Soho counter keeping early prices to $300 for 20 courses, with an $800 snow crab menu planned for winter, and previews Simon Kim’s Madison Avenue omakase “speakeasy” with three‑Michelin‑star chef Masahiro Yoshitake.

Article author:

Jay Cheshes

Photo credit:

Blaine Pennington