Bloomberg’s Kate Krader profiles Nōksu, a 12‑seat, design‑forward counter hidden behind a keypad‑locked gate inside the 34th Street–Herald Square subway station (and reachable via the Martinique New York hotel), where chef Dae Kim — an alum of Per Se and Silver Apricot — will serve a 15‑course Korean‑influenced tasting menu priced from $225when the restaurant opens on September 21, 2023. Built in a former barber shop/newsstand after a four‑year remodel by owners Bobby Kwak and Joseph Ko, the induction‑only kitchen turns out visually striking dishes such as surf‑clam egg custard topped with chrysanthemum‑like potato petals and caviar, kegani‑crab tartlets, tilefish arranged to resemble a diving fish, venison hand rolls with beet gochujang, and a frozen honey‑dill flan with chamoe sorbet. Kim’s flower‑strewn presentations draw on Union Square Greenmarket produce and echo the monochrome ink‑painting‑inspired interior by designer Claire Soojin Kim. Beverage director John Parson pairs cool‑climate wines for $175, while a $95 zero‑proof flight curated by Alex Truong offers tea‑ and fruit‑based drinks. Security cameras and a Ring doorbell will vet subway entrants, underscoring the playful secrecy of what Bloomberg bills as “NYC’s most exciting new fine‑dining restaurant in a subway station.”
Title author:
Kate Krader
Photo credit:
Alex Truong